Swing Check Valve 3" Slip PVC
SKU: VA-SCV3
Swing Check Valve 3" Slip PVC
Direct water flow through your irrigation system with the PVC Swing Check Valve, 3 in. IPS S X S. Water is conveyed one-way through the valve when the flap opens. This leak-resistant valve connects two 3 in. pipes in an irrigation or other pressurized system and prevents the backflow of water. Prevents costly property damage, pipe corrosion, and system issues. Durable check valve is made of PVC plastic. Flapper is made of EPDM. Use fittings and other valves to set up a new irrigation system, expand an existing system, or make repairs.
Applications -
- Directs water flow one-way through pipe when flap opens and allows water through. Prevents costly property damage, pipe corrosion, and system issues
- Use for subsurface irrigation or in sprinkler control system installation; works with most PVC pipe to transport water and prevent backflow in pressurized systems
- As part of a complete flow management system, the Swing Check Slip Valve works with PVC pipes and other compatible system components to allow water to flow through
Features -
- Flapper allows water through when water pressure moves it
- Check valve body is white and hollow
- Check valve is constructed using durable PVC
- Size - 3"
- Connection Type - IPS Slip (IPS—Iron Pipe Size, same as SCH. 40 Pipe)
- Primary Material - PVC
- Maximum Working Pressure - 125 PSI @ 72°F
Certifications -
- ASTM D1784
- No Lead
Gluing PVC Pipe
All the joints in PVC piping whether it's used for irrigation, drains and vents in house plumbing or as a part of a central vacuum system, are literally welded together with a chemical solvent. The solvent cement, applied to both of the pieces being joined, temporarily melts a thin layer of PVC, which re-solidifies in the seconds after the pieces are put together and forms a seamless, waterproof, airtight seal. The process is simple but unforgiving of error - once the weld sets, the only way to change it is to cut it off. Here's how to keep mistakes to a minimum.
1. Measure and cut: Measure the distance between the shoulders on the fittings at each end of the pipe to ensure that the pipe will be fully seated in its fittings. Transfer that measurement to the pipe and make a straight cut with a hacksaw. Scrape the inside of the cut smooth with a utility knife.
2. Prime: Spread cement primer over the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting where they'll overlap. The primer softens and cleans the plastic.
3. Dry fit: Assemble everything to make sure the pipe is the correct length. On fittings such as elbows, position is critical, so make a reference mark from the pipe onto the fitting.
4. Glue: Apply the cement to the primed areas on the inside of the fitting and to the outside of the pipe.
5. Push and twist: Slide the pipe into the fitting until it bottoms out against the fitting's shoulder, then give it a 1/4 inch turn to spread the glue and speed its cure. If you're attaching a fitting, push it in with the reference marks slightly out of register, and turn the fitting to align the marks. Hold for 30 seconds, then wipe up any excess cement with a dry rag.
All the joints in PVC piping whether it's used for irrigation, drains and vents in house plumbing or as a part of a central vacuum system, are literally welded together with a chemical solvent. The solvent cement, applied to both of the pieces being joined, temporarily melts a thin layer of PVC, which re-solidifies in the seconds after the pieces are put together and forms a seamless, waterproof, airtight seal. The process is simple but unforgiving of error - once the weld sets, the only way to change it is to cut it off. Here's how to keep mistakes to a minimum.
1. Measure and cut: Measure the distance between the shoulders on the fittings at each end of the pipe to ensure that the pipe will be fully seated in its fittings. Transfer that measurement to the pipe and make a straight cut with a hacksaw. Scrape the inside of the cut smooth with a utility knife.
2. Prime: Spread cement primer over the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting where they'll overlap. The primer softens and cleans the plastic.
3. Dry fit: Assemble everything to make sure the pipe is the correct length. On fittings such as elbows, position is critical, so make a reference mark from the pipe onto the fitting.
4. Glue: Apply the cement to the primed areas on the inside of the fitting and to the outside of the pipe.
5. Push and twist: Slide the pipe into the fitting until it bottoms out against the fitting's shoulder, then give it a 1/4 inch turn to spread the glue and speed its cure. If you're attaching a fitting, push it in with the reference marks slightly out of register, and turn the fitting to align the marks. Hold for 30 seconds, then wipe up any excess cement with a dry rag.